On 18th December 2021 one of our owners and Sports Physiotherapist Jonny Kilpatrick ran the West Highland Way , in a day, North to South on the weekend closest to the winter solstice. Here is his account of it.

“I’m thinking of running the West Highland Way from North to South on the weekend closest to the winter solstice this year Mariam”, I said to my wife in August. A brief pause and “Okay, that sounds a good challenge” came back at me, which completely sums up how well supported I am by Mariam and my daughter Aria to do the hobbies I love.

This certainly hadn’t been something I’d ever really thought about but the seed got planted after watching Mariam pull off an epic effort herself running the West Highland Way in June. After 2 years of staying fit and being disappointed the pandemic had cancelled the race twice for her she did the route independently and pulled off one of the most nail biting and gritty finishes I’ve ever seen to finish 2 minutes inside her target of Sub-24 hours. It was brilliant and I think everyone who was involved, including myself left that day feeling quite inspired! When I feel inspired, I need to do something about it!

I’ve ran the West Highland Way as part of the race in June 2018 so I knew the route really well and have since developed as a runner so I felt a more ambitious goal of trying to beat my previous time of 20 hours and 46 minutes but in winter with the least daylight hours possible was achievable. That would work out to be a whole 7 hours daylight to use as well as the total unknown of how severe or relatively kind the weather would be. I’d also had a really disrupted year of running with an injury to the Meniscus in my right knee earlier in year leaving me with a lack of mileage this year but a massive motivation to pull something out late in the year and feel like I still achieved in my running during 2021.

So we have the Why of this challenge, now for the How!

I found myself more motivated than I’ve ever been in planning for this, maybe appreciating I could run again after the knee or just the way the world has generally been this last 2 years in the pandemic where my work as an owner in a Sports Physio Clinic has really took over a little more of my time than I’d ever wanted. Whatever it was, I hit my training like never before with an intensity and goal that I wouldn’t be compromising on. Incidentally, and some may laugh; this was the first time since I began running back in 2017 that I actually thought about myself as a runner and that doing well in it would be important to me. Previously with the many races I’ve done in the last few years Including some fairly chunky ones such as the Lakeland 100 in 2019 or the triple crown of West Highland Way races in 2018 I was really just approaching it as a big challenge and trying not to F**k it. I even found myself brave enough this training cycle to run in leggings minus the over shorts, although numerous corners of my social circle have not so subtly suggested I don’t!

I dredged up my old WHW plans by Neil MacNicol of RunRecover from 2018 and decided I’d just be doing a 12 week block of that with some additional rehab type strengthening a few times a week for my duff knee. I’d been training myself for a year or so prior to this and I’d forgot just how good Neil’s plans were with the variety and intensity. In hindsight on my own, I had fallen into a habit of making training harder and more grinding in terms of the terrain, but this was definitely not going to help on this challenge and I’m not sure it’s done that much to progress my running in the last year or two.

Training went brilliantly and I knew by 6 weeks into the block that I was on course to be in the best shape of my life, if not already in it. I even did all my rehab and didn’t adjust the plan whatsoever which resulted in not one single training niggle except for the right knee which I was happy to deal with myself through a regular battery of dry needling, massage and strengthening.  In the planning of this I’d also decided that I really wanted to enjoy the whole day and opted against going totally unsupported as I know some people do on these efforts. Instead, I arranged a hit squad of local Scottish runners I’m friendly with all of whom I consider to be better runners than myself to accompany me on various sections and just keep me engaged with it all. The respect I had for each of these runners I was sure would completely prevent me showing myself up with any melodrama on the day and just keep that mental pressure on me for the target I’d told them all I wanted to achieve. You can’t hit a target you can’t see, right? I provided them all a 20 hour schedule to make sure they would all keep me moving to it.

Finally on preparation, I can’t thank Mariam enough for shelving her own big training runs and time on the trail on the weekends to facilitate mine. We’ve realised in the last year or thereabouts that with Aria being 4.5 years old it’s just not right to have both of us attempting big runs at the same times in the year.

So how’d it go?

I’m really pleased to report that I managed to beat my target time by 21 minutes and finished in Milngavie in 20 hours 25 minutes and 59 secs. The Kilpatrick’s do like the dramatic sprint (hobble) finish and on the day for some reason I’d convinced myself I was chasing a finish time of 0128 making for a nerve wracking last few miles! Not the first time my glycogen depleted brain on these long runs has let me down in the old maths department. The run actually went really well and I thoroughly enjoyed myself throughout it with great company and stunning winter weather. I’m told this is could be a Fastest Known Time in Winter for a supported West Highland Way effort North to South. That remains to be seen but if it is then that’s a nice bonus and certainly sets an achievable target for people to have a crack at next year!

If you’re still with me at this stage what follows is my blow by blow account of the effort and of course loads of profound insights into what went well and what should have went a little better.

Saturday 18th December 2021

It’s 0459 and I find myself at the Sore Feet Statue that marks the end of the West Highland Way in Fort William about to start what should be about 20 hours of running back home to Glasgow. As you’d expect it’s dark, it’s cold and I’m unsurprisingly the only person on the street. Certainly this is the most low key start to any race I’ve ever done but that was because of the antisocial hours I’d decided to attempt and finish this in based upon maximising my daylight hours on the fast more runnable sections. I’d set a schedule for my supporting crew that would have me through Kinlochleven at 0810 and over to Kingshouse by 1000. Of course everything got a little exciting at the start of this and I’d had far too much caffeine and I ended up in Kinlochleven at 0740 and Kingshouse at 0930. Mariam was a little panicked at my message coming through Kinlochleven as her and Aria were still in bed at the hotel in Fort William. The section went really well to be honest and I think I’d probably overestimated the time needed. I had an initial panic for the first mile running down the street trying to get my headtorch which had been fine in the hotel to actually turn on. Not sure how I did it, but I’d activated the lock button which I was able to suss out with a trusty google search while running, nothing like a drama to settle you into the thing. I decided I would just run the entire hill up from Glen Nevis as it’s pretty flat all along the top and it looked foggy up there so I wanted a little time in the bank. Foggy was an understatement, I’m not sure I could see more than about 1 m in front of the wall of mist and light from my headtorch the whole way over to the Kinlochleven Descent. This strangely I think worked to my favour as I just ran to feel with what was immediately in front of me on fresh legs and I made great progress. It also kept me totally unaware of the creepy sheep and deer eyes that were no doubt planning to scare the crap out of me.

Coming up the long 4 mile hill from Kinlochleven I did show much more restraint and walked the bits that needed it while eating a ton and listening to some angry people in my ears asking me how much I wanted this and telling me not to be a pussy and such! As planned, daylight was in about half way up the climb and the sunrise was just stunning and totally reminded me to take it all in as well. The descent down the Devil‘s Staircase flowed well and I didn’t feel like I sustained any real damage to my quads or sore knee. I just love this bit of the route too as the Buachialle has such a special place in my heart having left some of my Uncle Raymond’s remains at the top and purposely made it Aria’s first Munro, carrying her up there at 5 months of age. Towards the bottom of the staircase, I came across Lorne and his partner Lorraine taking pictures so of course I popped out some completely unreflectively fast descending just to give Lorne a wee panic about supporting me for the next 31 miles from Kingshouse down to Beinglas. Not sure how wise that was 20 miles later when I was chasing Lorne without him ever looking back!

A quick checkpoint at Kingshouse where it was lovely to see Mariam and Aria’s smiles and support, then Lorne and I headed off towards Glencoe. He kept running and I kept following thinking the whole way up the hill towards the Rannoch Moor from the Ski centre if I would have actually ran all this on my own. I concluded I probably would and I did say to him to drag me through the hours of daylight down to Beinglas in good time to get a little of the Lochside in during the last light. Lorne actually was brilliant company having done the first 22 miles myself and we made great time over the moor with lovely winterised sunkissed hills to our right and eventually the big hills at Orchy in front. What else would you rather be doing with a Saturday morning in winter Jonny? It was fairly cold but with the temperature inversion it was noticeable that the valleys were the coldest and we warmed the higher we went. Not a lick of wind or rain forecast would be a major factor on my side today.

Another quick pitstop with the girls out the front of the Inveroran Hotel and we were off up Jelly Baby Hill en route to Bridge of Orchy. My legs were still working great on the climb and descent and I was taking in calories and caffeine no problem. Through Orchy and on our way up to Tyndrum was the first time I actually started to feel a little fatigue creeping into the legs on the uphills, nothing major but I did think I’ll need to be sensible with walking the appropriate inclines and not toughing them out. The views on this section are some of my favourite from the whole route, it’s just a wide open valley with really steeply rising mountains everywhere. It’s well surfaced and not a chore at all to run through even when tiring.

Tyndrum was Baltic when we reached it! I was supposed to eat something more substantial here but opted to get going with just a banana which wasn’t the wisest idea. I’d already slowed up with eating my solid foods because they were all slightly frozen and much more effort than usual to get chewed and swallowed. This would come back to bite me but I felt okay even though I’d deviated from my food plan! I was starting to feel the pace a little with the cumulative mileage so I opted to get the headphones in again and have those rather angry chaps “motivate me”. This did make an immediate difference though and I felt I was able to keep a much better pace behind Lorne through the Crainlarich Rollercoaster! Thankfully the medieval fortress of fallen spruce trees from the storm a few weeks prior had been cut up as it had took Lorne and I a good 5-10 minutes to get through on a training run and it had been in my head how little I was looking forward to being scratched and spiked from every angle climbing through them. As I’d pretty much been reverted to powder and gels for food due to the cold I started to really get some stomach and gut bloating across this section which was hard to keep running our pace through. I knew though there was a proper toilet block at Beinglas so it was just about getting there and I could take a slightly longer check point as I’d been quick through them until now.

We arrived at Beinglas Farm 25 minutes up on the 20 hour schedule I’d given my support crew. Unfortunately I think I took 20 minutes of this at the check point between trying to eat, change clothing/shoes and use the facilities. At this point Mark and Stu rotated into the supporting roles and Lorne bowed out with a job well done. The Lochside was certainly one of the crux points in the planning of this effort. It always is though due to the treacherously slippy and undulating terrain of rocks and roots, with Scotland’s largest Loch ready to swallow you right up with any falls. Hitting it at 55 miles in where you’ve pushed the pace to get ahead of time for the second longer darkness was definitely going to make a difference too. The longer checkpoint had made a positive difference and I was running well to begin the section and thankfully my stomach and guts were being kinder. Unfortunately this was short lived as I just didn’t stomach solids well at all from here and survived really on the odd glass of flat coke, nibble of tablet or a muller rice. I found myself deflecting the efforts of Stu and Mark to suggest I should eat because everytime I drank or ate my stomach was just terrible for the next half hour. Another thing that was immediately apparent was that I shouldn’t have changed my shoes out from the Hoka Speedgoat to the much less protected but more nimble Hoka Torrent. The Speedgoat had been like a bulldozer down the WHW so far with all of its plush cushioning, the torrent though I could feel every tiny rock through and I think the slower speed we were going compared to training would totally have accommodated the lack of grip and dexterity of the speedgoat along the lochside.

We were actually making steady progress across the Lochside and I really enjoyed getting a catch up with both Mark and Stu at various bits. Probably so much so that my lack of attention to the trail had me at one stage trip on a root and go down like a trap door, face first into a rock on the ground with no efforts from my arms to help. Luckily cheek bone still intact with a graze and bruise but eyes seeing straight and I was confident I’d swerved an effort ending accident and we could batter on. Once off the much more treacherous and slow ground north of Inversnaid we made some great progress right across onto the low road where I think my lack of training on this bit recently really played on my mind as with the very poor visibility in dark and fog it felt much longer than the 2 miles or so it should be and I was constantly convincing myself the climb up to the forestry was upon us, but wasn’t! The weird thing about running in dark and fog is just how disorientating it can be in terms of what type of gradient you’re actually on. I know the section from the low road to Rowardennan like the back of my hand but it felt like we just couldn’t be on the right path as it looked to be constantly going uphill even though it is clearly downhill. Thankfully I knew we had no where else we could have went wrong so just continued at a decent trot until we saw Neil MacNicol’s headtorch in the distance at the toilet block at Rowardennan at 1900 (14 hours in). Rodger had taken over car duties and I knew it would be good having his experience to draw upon if I needed it for the coming sections.

The next section between Rowardennan and Balmaha was one I was determined not to lose too much time on as it’s a complete rollercoaster of short hills and sections of runnable trail. I’d purposely asked Neil to join here even though Stu and Mark would continue to Drymen. I have a lot of respect for Neil as  a runner and a coach and I knew his calm head and dry sense of humour would help in some darker moments to come. I opted to once again put the headphones in for this section and take an abusive bit of ‘motivation’ on board. The section actually went really well I felt, minus another belly flop that once again I came away from unscathed. We were running (or at least that what it felt like) everything that was flattish and downhill and making really steady uphill walking pace. The various landmarks of the section came and went quickly and I was surprised how quickly we were in Balmaha although for some reason the last hill up and over into Balmaha had kicked the arse clean out of me and I was feeling probably my first proper bonk of the whole effort. This wasn’t aided a whole lot when I got to Rodger’s food station at 2055 (15 hours 55mins) at the foot of Conic Hill and realised Mark and Stu had tanned all my remaining flat coke. All I could do was have a little mental chuckle at that when Rodger asked, “so what do you feel like” to which I replied “the flat coke the lads have just finished off”, he looked a little mortified but I actually found it quite funny.

Off we set up Conic with absolutely no illusions that this would be a cold, slow slog as it’s steep as f**k from the North side and I wasn’t exactly feeling like a mountain goat ready to spring up it. Headphones were taken out which I knew wouldn’t necessarily be optimal but I fancied a chat with the lads now we had a slower pace. There was an incredible temperature inversion and the cloud was so thickly banked all over Loch Lomond below us with a clear sky above. Knowing I couldn’t do a whole lot more at that moment in time than keep the legs moving up I actually quite enjoyed the odd glimpse backwards and thought there’s certainly silver linings to every situation. Not sure how much my freezing cold support runners were enjoying that stunning view by the top having to move at my pace. Over conic and I’d forgot just how trickly the upper 3rd of the southern side is on tired legs for loose rubble, thankfully no more falls.

It was good to get back onto the more runnable trails back towards Drymen as I could slowly build a little momentum with these tired legs. I’ve always found that towards the 70 mile plus mark of the ultras that you really need to get the momentum going on flatter ground as it is entirely possible to run  but the ups and downs just kill that. About 2 miles out from Drymen we spotted a head torch in the distance over by the sheep pen (well not actually) which turned out to be Ross Jack, the husband of one of my final 2 support runners Stacey who’d clearly got the FOMO and dropped the girls early so he could come get involved.

Into the Check point at the high car park in the forestry above Drymen where I was so glad to see Mariam who’d be accompanying me on the last section with Stacey. Rodger the legend, had made another trip to the small store in Drymen and was standing with a fresh bottle of flat coke and a muller rice. I managed a little flat coke and that was about it though, I just wanted to get going without feeling like I was starting the section feeling sick again. Here we said goodbye to Stu, Mark and Neil who’d all done a great job getting me through what I consider to be the crux of this effort and had left me bang on time provided I pulled out a good last section with the girls.

I wanted to run the last section with Mariam and Stacey as this was the reverse of Mariam’s effort where Ross and I ran with her over from Kinlochleven to Fort Bill. I felt if Mariam hadn’t pulled that awesome finish out of the bag and got her sub-24 there would be a high chance we could be on for a divorce after the ‘encouragement’ Ross and I had gave her. I was just going to have to suck up whatever came my way and pull up my Big Boy pants when it came to that last 2 mile section down Mugdock to emulate the tenacity and drive Mariam had shown in June. I don’t really have much to say for this section except it was a few hours of hearing Mariam shouting back from the front “come on Jay” and Stacey behind me saying “you’re doing great Jonny”, while I just tried to run, shuffle limp at something resembling a steady pace. It was nice to see Ross pop up to check if we needed anything again at the Beech Tree road crossing. I don’t think he realised in this dark fog how creepy it looked constantly popping up with a blinding head torch - just kidding Ross. I was glad to get the last big hill finished and onto the short downhill road section to Carbeth as I knew we could easily enough run it in from here. As a nice bonus I managed to get some Kendall Mint Cake in which wasn’t long on giving me a kick of energy and had me wondering why I hadn’t tried this at any stage in the previous 40 miles. As we entered Mugdock I knew the script without it needing to be said and Mariam just lifted the pace! I decided not to look at my watch but I knew it was going to be tight, I’d just do what I could and what would be, would be. We ran well for the 2 miles down to Milngavie town centre and I touched the finish at 20 hours 25 minutes and 59 secs! I’d done it and managed to beat my target time over the 96 mile route by 21 minutes; only realising this after a week of telling folk it’d beat it by 2 minutes, romantically describing my epic finish that emulated what Mariam had done 6 months earlier. I was so happy to be finished and delighted to once again be at the finish of a West Highland Way effort with Mariam and our Friends Ross and Stacey. Like the start this was very low key as it was half one in the morning but I really liked that for some reason as we’d also pretty much not seen a single person on the West Highland Way between Fort William and Milngavie which is a complete rarity.

Final Thoughts

I appreciate this is a long blow by blow account of my effort but I hope this is helpful for other people who may be considering undertaking it in future as I only really found two other accounts that I could use as a little bit of research by Paul Giblin and Neil MacNicol. I think it’s also important for me to acknowledge that weather wise I had a great forecast which really made a long winter effort much more enjoyable. If it was windy, rainy or icy, all of which in winter may be more likely than what I got then I think this would have been a much tougher day out that I wouldn’t have had a chance of beating my old summer time on. All in all though I would say this went about as well as I could have hoped except for my nutrition but I understand you have days like this on the trail and I probably wouldn’t have changed much about the pace that was needed to get down to Beinglas to give me a good distance in the bank because I know from experience that the 70-100 mile mark the wheels always grind a little slower or come off at some point.

Having done the route both directions I would be inclined to say that I feel the profile of North to South is a little more difficult due to getting the lochside at 55 miles in and then Conic from the North on very tired legs, I guess though different tactics of not pushing so hard for the first 55 miles and I may see that differently. Running in the dark with poor visibility really slowed things down in the second darkness as it really affected my ability to commit to descents as I couldn’t see the gradient profile in front of me. This definitely smoked my quads and shin muscles more than I’ve ever experienced before and it’d be worth training slower descents in my opinion for any winter effort and strengthening the tibial muscles.

Doing it in winter has been an awesome challenge and actually a very enjoyable experience. I feel humbled that so many people gave me their time so close to Christmas and we all worked together to make this happen for me. It’s been suggested that this is a Fastest Known Time (FKT) for a winter supported effort North to South on the West Highland Way. That will be amazing if it is and I’ll be sure to log it as I feel its certainly a time a number of runners could take aim at on this iconic route. Doing these individual challenges with your friends has been awesome for both Mariam and myself this year and I would totally suggest others have a go at similar efforts rather than just stacking up race after race. It’s been great for me to relive all this a week after the effort and I’m pleased to report I’ve made a great recovery and am looking forward to running again in 2022 with a renewed enthusiasm for it.